Roman Necklace "Cassia" – Ancient Luxury for the Neck
What is behind the Fayum design?
The Cassia necklace is a reconstruction inspired by a Roman necklace from the 2nd to 3rd century AD, reflecting the opulent fashion of the Roman upper class in the province of Aegyptus through its characteristic interlocking links in a herringbone design and a centrally set green natural stone.
Who wore this Roman necklace in the 2nd century AD?
Imagine standing in the shimmering light of the Egyptian Fayum Basin, around 160 AD. Under the rule of Marcus Aurelius, the province of Aegyptus was a melting pot. When we looked at these hypnotic mummy portraits in the British Museum a few years ago, it becomes immediately apparent: these necklaces were the absolute must-have of the local elite. It was not merely jewelry, but a statement that combined Roman discipline with oriental opulence.
One very specific comparative piece that fascinates me every time is the portrait of a young woman from Hawara. She is wearing exactly this type of heavy golden necklace with a central stone. Anyone who believes that people in antiquity wore only simple tunics and sandals has underestimated the richness of the colors and the shine of this jewelry. This was not a discreet accessory, but a loud display of wealth, worn even into the grave to show the gods in the afterlife exactly who they were dealing with.
The Cassia Necklace: Ancient Aesthetics in Brass and Green
When you run your fingertips over the metal, you can feel a rhythmic, almost organic texture in the interlocking links, cool and supple against the skin. The necklace is not lightweight; it has that pleasant heaviness which immediately conveys a sense of grandeur. At the center rests the deep green stone, smooth and perfectly domed, catching the light and reflecting it in a rich forest tone, as if one were holding a piece of ancient luxury straight from an archaeological layer.
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Dimensions: Length approx. 60 cm, width approx. 1.5 cm.
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Material: High-quality brass, with a central aventurine in emerald green.
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Date: Model from the 2nd–3rd century AD (Roman Imperial period).
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Place of discovery / model: Inspired by the Fayum mummy portraits from Hawara, Egypt.
Materiality and Technique: Between Metal and Glass
The structure: The necklace stands out through its striking herringbone structure made of interlocking links, giving the piece an organic texture and a pleasant, dignified weight.
The stone: At the center rests an emerald-green aventurine. In antiquity, however, glass variants were also used for this purpose. The scholar Pliny the Elder reports in his Naturalis Historia how deceptively real Roman glassmakers were able to imitate precious gemstones, making them accessible to a broader upper class.
The craftsmanship: The replica is made of high-quality brass. An important historical detail is the sturdy hook clasp, the common type of fastening in antiquity.
Will you become a matron or the muse of Fayum?
You are standing at a museum night or a reenactment event in 2026. It is that moment when the light hits the green natural stone and you suddenly understand why the upper class in the province of Aegyptus spent enormous sums of denarii on it. This necklace is not a delicate little chain that one forgets – it has presence.
For reenactors and museum educators, this opens up exciting possibilities:
- Tactile learning: Let museum visitors feel the weight. It is the perfect “icebreaker” for talking about the trade in gemstones and gold in the 2nd century AD.
- Character portrayal: If you are portraying a wealthy matron or a citizen of Alexandria, this necklace gives your outfit the necessary “gravitas.”
- Photo shoots: With its width of 1.5 cm and its rich green color, the Cassia necklace is extremely photogenic.
My expert advice for reenactors: Wear it on its own or with matching earrings (inauris), just as they are often seen in the Fayum portraits.
What kind of history will it be today?
If you are looking for an authentic addition to a portrayal from the 2nd or 3rd century AD, there is hardly any way around the herringbone design with the central stone.
What did the ancient Romans say about such splendor?
“Cervix catenis onerat, aures inauribus premunt.”
“The neck is burdened with chains, the ears are weighed down by earrings.”
Smart interpretation: Although Clement (Paedagogus II, 12) criticizes excess here, he simultaneously confirms the historical reality for us: women really did wear these heavy necklaces as massively as they are reconstructed today.
The smart knowledge store: Fact check on the Cassia necklace
How do I clean the Roman necklace without ruining the color?
Since it is made of high-quality gold-colored brass, a dry, soft cotton cloth is completely sufficient. Avoid aggressive chemical cleaners, as they could damage the surface.
Does this necklace also go with a simple tunic from the 1st century?
Historically speaking, the Cassia necklace belongs to the middle Imperial period, that is, the 2nd century AD. It pairs perfectly with the palla of a wealthy woman.
Is the green stone a real emerald?
No, it is an artfully cut glass cabochon. This is entirely authentic: Pliny the Elder already reported how deceptively real Roman glassmakers could imitate gemstones.
Bibliography
Title: The British Museum: Mummy portrait of a woman
Author: British Museum Curators
Publication: Hawara/London
Title: Roman Jewelry: A Sourcebook
Author: Barbara Deppert-Lippitz
Publication: Archaeological Institute
Title: Life and Death in the Fayum
Author: Dr. Susan Walker
Publication: British Museum Press
Further Links
Updated on: 23/03/2026
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